Tip - Hot Shoe & LUF - Power Taps

I have to give full credit for this method of installing power taps to Luf Linkert. He was the first one I saw do it this way. I've tried other more complicated methods but none are more easier to do and more easily repaired than this. It lasts and the cars pass over with abolutely no bump or sound.

Before laying the copper tape, locate the best spot for the power taps. Mid-way through a straight near where the power supply & driver stations will be located is best.
Drill two holes through the track just outside of where the edge of the tap will be.
The hole needs to be just large enough to pass whatever size wire your using for your power taps.
With a rasp bit in a Dremel tool cut a shallow trough from the hole towards the slot. The trough should be deep enough for the wire (with insulation) to lay in. Clean up any sharp or rough edges with a razor knife.


(note: you can use a razor knife to cut the trough, it's just not as neat a job.)

Clean the track and wipe it down with a painters tack rag before each run of tape.
After all the tape is down and burnished, hook up the power taps

Be careful not to tear the tape going down into the power tap troughs.
Pre-tin the tape in the trough with a small drop of solder.
Strip off about a 1/4" of insulation from the wire and pre-tin the end.
Pass the wire through the track and bend the end over.
Pull the wire down into the trough and put the soldering iron on the wire. In a few seconds the solder will melt and the wire will sink into the drop of solder on the tape. Pull the iron off quickly, you don't want to get the tape too hot. It tends to lift. If it does, no problem. After it cools burnish it down again.


The finished power tap should look something like this.
The wire and solder should be well under the track surface.
The guide will pass over the trough without so much as a blip.



Original post at Autorama Racing: http://www.geocities.com/autoramaracing/power_taps.html?1138801538343