Falcon Creek Raceway

Hot Shoe's Track

2009-09-17T04:46:00.001-07:00

FCRW 3 Lane Routed - Clockwise up and down corkscrew

2008-03-20T17:44:00.000-07:00

SCI Thread on my Routed Plan

2008-03-20T17:42:00.000-07:00

I began a thread on SCI that discusses my 3 lane routed plan. Click Here to View!

Hellenbach Speedway

2008-02-22T06:24:00.000-08:00

Lane length - 112 feet
Driver's stations - XLR connections and standard 3 posts
Power - 12 volt deep cycle marine battery
Track surface - Magnetic paint
RMS - TrakMate using dead strips.
Track record - 9.96 secs. (Non mag)

Autodromo General San Martin - Smooth Sweeper

2008-02-20T18:46:00.000-08:00

tip: traingular track supports

2008-02-20T18:05:00.000-08:00

Tip: Carbide Bit at Home Depot - Old Jaybird

2008-02-14T12:06:00.000-08:00

I use Porter Cable solid carbide bits available at Home Depot for around $13, and sometimes on sale for $2-3 less. They are double flute type.

Part # is 2750030

Lowe's doesn't seem to carry anything comparable...strange.

Luf's New Targa Florio

2008-02-12T05:16:00.000-08:00

Super Rat - Missisauga Ontario

2008-02-11T19:15:00.001-08:00

Autodromo General San Martin - Big Sweeper - Elevations

2008-02-09T10:17:00.001-08:00

In the following diagrams lighter colors represent higher and higher elevations. The numbers are centimeters above the lowest level or table level.

Steve's Plan #5 - Sweeper

2008-02-06T16:17:00.001-08:00

Tip - Hot Shoe & LUF - Power Taps

2008-02-06T04:32:00.000-08:00

I have to give full credit for this method of installing power taps to Luf Linkert. He was the first one I saw do it this way. I've tried other more complicated methods but none are more easier to do and more easily repaired than this. It lasts and the cars pass over with abolutely no bump or sound.

Before laying the copper tape, locate the best spot for the power taps. Mid-way through a straight near where the power supply & driver stations will be located is best.
Drill two holes through the track just outside of where the edge of the tap will be.
The hole needs to be just large enough to pass whatever size wire your using for your power taps.
With a rasp bit in a Dremel tool cut a shallow trough from the hole towards the slot. The trough should be deep enough for the wire (with insulation) to lay in. Clean up any sharp or rough edges with a razor knife.

(note: you can use a razor knife to cut the trough, it's just not as neat a job.)

Clean the track and wipe it down with a painters tack rag before each run of tape.
After all the tape is down and burnished, hook up the power taps

Be careful not to tear the tape going down into the power tap troughs.
Pre-tin the tape in the trough with a small drop of solder.
Strip off about a 1/4" of insulation from the wire and pre-tin the end.
Pass the wire through the track and bend the end over.
Pull the wire down into the trough and put the soldering iron on the wire. In a few seconds the solder will melt and the wire will sink into the drop of solder on the tape. Pull the iron off quickly, you don't want to get the tape too hot. It tends to lift. If it does, no problem. After it cools burnish it down again.

The finished power tap should look something like this.
The wire and solder should be well under the track surface.
The guide will pass over the trough without so much as a blip.

Original post at Autorama Racing: http://www.geocities.com/autoramaracing/power_taps.html?1138801538343

Autodromo General San Martin - Big Sweeper

2008-02-05T21:10:00.000-08:00

Autodromo General San Martin - Barber Corner

2008-02-05T10:05:00.000-08:00

Tip - "The Old Jaybird" on Driver's Stations

2008-02-04T15:08:00.000-08:00

Yes, Steve's stuff (Sawtelle) is "Cadillac" quality for sure. Another cheaper option, used by the tightwad in our club, was to use household wiring junction boxes, like you would put an outlet or wall switch in, and get plain face plates, paint them in lane colors, run 3 bolts thru for your controllers and you are good to go, If you do this, you need to spread the bolts as much as space allows, maybe in a V pattern, as we have had to watch alligator clip shorting problems with this setup, The easiest is to just clip the middle alligator vertically and slide the colored boot down over it to cover. No shorts this way. They can be mounted horizontally and vertically and all the wiring fits in the box nicely, and with a little planning could even be mounted flush to the table top. You could probably build these for about $2 per lane or less.

Jay

Autodromo General San Martin

2008-02-04T05:12:00.000-08:00

This is probably my favorite so far. Numbers are CMs above the table top.

Tips from The Old Jaybird - Joining Routed Track Sections

2008-02-02T20:10:00.000-08:00

Easiest way to join pieces is to use a lap board, piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood, about 6 or 8 inches in one dimension and as wide as the track in the other. Place it under the joint and countersink wood screws down thru the track into the plywood, then fill the screw holes with Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty, sand and paint and tape.

12-16-2007, 10:52 PM

oldslotracer

National Racer

Join Date: Sep 2005

Location: Vancouver, BC

Posts: 327

Do what Old Jaybird says, unless the track has to come apart for storage...then do what he says on one side and use furniture bolts and threaded inserts on the other half

Tip - Luf on layout design and how to design corners

2008-02-02T19:48:00.001-08:00

It's a good thing nobody's around when I lay out a track...draw it roughly in pencil on the MDF, when you get close to what you want, start drawing in felt pen. A strip of cardboard about 2"x36" makes a great compass...just punch felt pen size holes in it with a screwdriver. But I only draw compass corners, I don't rout them like that anymore. Very few of my corners are constant radii. I use the Lexan strip to rout the entire track, so no two corners are alike.
I like a track where each lane is very different. You will have a best lane, a favorite lane and usually one lane that's tough to win in. It makes it tougher for one guy to win in every lane as you rotate through.

Before you rout, place some cars on the track and imagine how it will drive, if the squeezes make sense, where the passing will happen, etc.

Above all, take advantage of the freedom routing allows...

Driving Television - Luf's Targa Florio

2008-01-31T17:56:00.000-08:00

Routed Track in Newton Iowa

2008-01-30T09:05:00.000-08:00

Routed Track "Luf-style" in Newton Iowa

Steve's Plan #5 - Longer

2008-01-25T19:28:00.000-08:00

Martin's Plan - Longer

2008-01-25T19:25:00.000-08:00

Tip - Luf on Bending MDF

2008-01-23T20:21:00.000-08:00

See this link:

http://www.oldslotracer.com/Corkscrew1.html

Luf's Portable Track - Awesome Elevation & Corners

2008-01-23T20:14:00.000-08:00

Tip - Super Simple Driving Stations by AutoRama

2008-01-23T20:11:00.001-08:00

This drivers staion is availablke at Autorama Racing for $10.00 each:

Reprinted from:
http://www.geocities.com/autoramaracing/wiring_and_driver_station.html?1138409345140

No... it ain't a Swiss watch but it will get you running quicker than anything.
Wiring so simple even a coon-ass like me can get it done. Forget all that negative, schmegative wiring mumbo-jumbo.
Screw it to the edge of track, hook up three wires and pull the trigger.

The red and black wires are the only wires that go to the track.
Like the picture says, black on the right rail, red on the left. But it doesn't really matter, hook it up backwards and the cars just go the other direction. If the cars don't move the right direction just swap these two wires, only these two. Make track direction changes at the track only.
The red wire is also connected to the negative side of the power supply. All of the drivers stations will share the same negative wire from the power supply.
The white wire goes to the positve side of the power supply. All of the driver stations will share the same positve wire from the power supply.

Be certain that what ever color wires you have on the rails (left or right, red or black) for a lane, that all the lanes are the same.

Tips from Martin (SanPhoeno) 1-9-08

2008-01-23T20:00:00.000-08:00

Hi Steve,

Thanks for your email.

Let me try and explain 3 lanes in the space of 2.5 lanes. If a track had three lanes with no mergers it would be a 3 lane wide track all over the table, like a plastic track. With routed tracks you get the flexibility to do things differently.

Of course my idea would only work if the track is large enough, say 7 seconds or more a lap. Keep in mind on a routed track you need a good 10ft minimum of un merged lanes to be able to pass someone.

Having been at it for a few years and a few tracks built and raced on, each track i think of building gets more and more complicated to keep it interesting for me. By putting mergers into a track compared to not mergers, its like an athletics race, in a 100m race they each have their own lanes but in a 800m, they start in their own lanes then have mergers tactics and other things come into it, so each time you run the race, it plays out differently.

Back to the design, with the first track, the autocross track, the corners at each end of the table were merged when i built it so only the inside and outside lanes could pass, the middle lane would not be able to run side by side with either lane. This was ok when people of different abilities and cars of different speeds are on the track, but when a group of competent or equal abilited drivers are on the track at the same time, there wasn't much passing. It is much easier to pass on a corner than a straight after merged section. Eventually I unmerged one lane at each end, the outside at the left and the inside at the right hand end.

for example, car A leads car B into a merged corner so only one can go through at a time. when car A gets to the exit point of the corner and is entering the straight, this driver gets on the gas sooner than car B, so car B is going to have a tough time passing down the straight. If the following corners are unmerged, car B, might be able to line up a pass on car A if they got a good enough run out of the first turn and down the straight.

If i was to build a new track, i would have some sections where the three lanes are unmerged, like the main straight, but have 4 or 5 sections of the rest of the track set up so lanes 1 and 2 are merged and lane three is unmerged. then lanes 2 and 3 are merged and lane 1 not. so over the course of a lap, each lane has the chance to get past the car in the next lane. Possibly a tight corner or two where all lanes are merged so its one at a time.

Driving around the same track, every 8 seconds is good but after an hour, you have a pretty good idea of the track, so having a real 'racing' element like this, makes each time you drive/race on the track a 'new' experience.

The other side of it too it on a table in most homes, a lot of people lay as much 'spaghetti' as they can and the track has no character or feel to it. By having less width of the track as it loops around the table, it allows for more scenery and 'feel' or realism.

Hope this helps and makes sense.

Anything else I can help you with, let me know.

Martin

Tips from Tom (GIDDYUP) 1-22-08

2008-01-23T19:58:00.001-08:00

you could always add technical to either plan by adding:

1) Elevations, you can some difficulty, especially an elevation change at the crest/beginning of a turn (as Tilke’s talks about in that video)…check out the Nurburgring...lots of you tube videos of laps of it…lots of these in that track, it’ll give you a sense for it.

2) A squeeze or two, to slow traffic

3) Or even a ‘wandering’ middle lane to squeeze the inner/outer lanes in certain areas to slow it down (see some of Luf’s track – especially his new one does this)

4) Increasing/decreasing radius corners (versus constant radius) or even double apex corners (see my track the big sweeper…it’s actually a double apex corner)….although, using the flexible routing strip should do this naturally I guess?

Re: elevations, I wouldn’t get too drastic on the height change. On my old track the mountain descent (6” drop in 18” lineal track) was the scene of many a de-slot. I think Luf will see the same on his Nurburgring track as well. If you keep the height transition smooth, it’ll keep it fast & flowing…I think the general rule of thumb is an inch per lineal foot of track – it doesn’t seem like much, but when you’re talking 1:32 scale it becomes pronounced…although, I should keep my yap shut here, because I have a few spots where I was 2” per foot!

Re: Peter Highman, I was referring to one of his books by him and Bruce Jones called “World Motor Racing Circuits: A Spectator's Guide” (ISBN 0-233-99619-2). I bought a used copy of this book from Amazon based on a reference in the Slot Car Bible book by Robert Schleicher. It has the track layouts, relative speeds/gears on the track plus elevations. It must have 50+ circuits in it, from ovals to old courses which no longer exist. I used it quite a bit for reference when designing.

Don’t worry about the undercutting! Even though I did a lot of undercuts on Mugello, it took me only a few hours at most. So it’s not like you’ll be working on that part for days on end. Yes, it’s a bit more work…but so worth it.

Tips from Tom (GIDDYUP) 1-20-08

2008-01-23T19:56:00.001-08:00

Yeah - take your time on the planning...I probably spent 4-6 weeks mulling over Mugello, you know how it is - you think ou have something but after a few days you think of some tweaks and one thing leads to another....But if you're thinking about the longer straight already...you'll probably be disappointed if you don't do it ;O)

Re: the elevations, I used 3/8" MDF for both tracks, once I had routed and cut out the road bed with a jig saw, flipped them over and routed width wise the undercuts...the more you do/closer spacing each cut is, the better the flex...but the weaker the MDF... had a snap on my first track (downhill portion from the mountain) which was a lesson in knowing the boundaries of flex. Happened again on Mugello - was plain careless this time. I followed Luf's page on how to flex...Flexing MDF

Getting he flex and doing the undercutting can be very time consuming. On Tangelwood was very cautious about lining up every undercut and used a jog/brace. On Mugello, strapped down the mdf and did freehand...undercuts were perfectly straight, but straight enough .... and went waaaay faster and flexes good enough.

Caution though, if you are using 3/8" MDF, you'll probably route your slots a hair over 1/4" to allow for all depths/types of guides, so when you flip over for undercutting, recommend you set the router bit depth a little less than 1/4"...if you do the math, you'll see 2/8+ plus 2/8 is > 3/8" = lotsa flex but really weak MDF...so just be careful when you lug a piece around or even flip it over. Also, I think Luf touches on this, start at the top of the elevation then slowly tack it down and work your way to teh bottom. On Tanglewood, took me 3 days of slowly putting pressure on it to get the mtn descent.

Re: bridging 2 pieces, I used a 2x4 or something like and lines it up underneath the joint, brought both track pieces together, screwed both down, actually used wood glue as well, then puttied the joint - sanded, and topped off the joint again with some wood putty (it usuallu shrinks a bit after drying depending on gap, sanded. I didn't route to each edge of the pieces, I left like 5-6" on either so I could route a smooth joint after the pieces were brought together.

Re: driver stations....I used Steve's, in my mind, I couldn't have done a better job and the difference in parts on what it would've cost me...I think it was one of the smartest decisions I've made.

Tips from Tom (GIDDYUP) 1-19-08

2008-01-23T19:54:00.001-08:00

elevations too - these add a dimension and enjoyment, that's hard to explain in words. Any thoughts to what kind of scenery? Looks like it would be a good fit for a Targa Florio, Mille Miglia type ...mountains, rolling hills )

Couple things I learned after routing my first track was spreading out the driver stations and placing them around the track in places where de-slots would be most likely to occur...this has helped the enjoyment factor a tonne as people aren't having to hit the track call as many times to stop the action and walk around the track...which you know can be frustrating when driving with newbies or small kids.

I think you'll really enjoy routing...take Luf's advice and route a few scraps first and use his kit...especially that flex strip. On my first I wanted constant radius corners...the corners ended up pretty boring. On my new track...all routed with the strip...which just allows for more natural, flowing lines. One other thing too, based on your footprint, I'd recommend to take advantage of a squeeze...adds another dimension to the racing. Just try to keep the number of them down...too many - like too many esses in a row - makes for frustrated drivers. Hmmm, maybe a squeeze in the upper left corner? (with a driver station there)...I had a top of mountain squeeze on my first track....everyone loved that part - here's a link to it on SlotForum:
Tanglewood

One other thing I did differently on my new track was I drew out the track plan, just as you have, then figured what the racing lines would be through certain corners etc (i.e., what I'd route), then adjusted the plan for spacing etc around that to make it look more like a real track versus a static width to the painted roadbed all the way around...I got the idea from a Belgian fellow on Slot Forum and his Petit Spa track, here's a link to his site (it wasn't working last I checked), look under Gallery/Circuits/Petit Spa (the rebuild)
Petit Spa

Re: sources of inspiration, Luf's new & revamped Targa:
New Targa

Triggy's and Martin's San Pheono which I see on your site.

Plus...

Toby's track:
Targa Lestrell

Rallyhub's: RallyHub's dutch trio track
Wes' Targa digital wood layout: Digital Wood!

Not sure if all that rambling was any of use...but glad to share!

Take care & happy routing!
tom

PS Very jealous of that 'future space' you've got there...the possibilities!

PPS Thanks for the kinds words about my humble little track....keep your eyes on the Canadian Proxy Race thread at SCI, my little track will be hosting the August race (round 8/9). CPR 2008

Construction Tip - Luf - 1-3-08

2008-01-23T19:51:00.001-08:00

1) Having never raced on a track with squeeze sections, I don't really understand how they would work in real life. I can imagine they would be fun and could serve to equalize the lane times. But it would seem to be hard to predict what to do in advance (to equalize lane times).

You can try to equalize lap times, but you really won't know until you've driven and gotten used to the track.

It's easy enough to re-rout one lane in one corner to "tune" things, but usually they'll be pretty close. There will always be a favorite or fast lane, but we race 3 ten lap races in each lane, so things even out.

With well placed squeezes, you can make a faster guy work for every pass. Instead of just going as fast as possible, with squeezes you need to be aware of where the other cars are and you need to learn their driving style. Because we race crash and burn, you need to finish 10 laps to win, so you'll find out who will give way at the squeezes (most of the time). It can slow the pace a little, but it sure adds more fun.

2) Is there a link on the internet somewhere to the actual layouts of the above tracks? This would be helpful to study as Miles and I begin to plan our layouts.

Any plans I may have had when designing the tracks pretty much went out the window once the routing started. I build them to fit a space and hopefully leave access for maintenance. Think about flow and include elevations, don't try to fill the entire space with roadway and you'll end up with a better looking and more drivable track. Take a look at San Phoeno's track in Australia, it's a beaut.

3) We both have overpasses on our current tracks but I have noticed that you don't tend to have overpasses - is this just your preference?

Don't like overpasses, mostly because I've been trying to model existing tracks, and I think overpasses make it look more toy-like (we're not grown men playing with toys, of course). Also, a lot of overpasses I've seen block too much of the track

4) What tips could you give us as these will be our 1st routed tracks?

The biggest thing about routing is that there's no rules and very few limits, and it's more fun if you pick a theme. I like lots of elevations, but if you want to start with a flat track, Sebring would be a good theme.

Do lots of sketches, then draw it to scale, then draw it out full size on the MDF and place some cars on it before you start routing. You'll get a pretty good idea what will work for you. It doesn't hurt to build a small test track first...have a look at our Autocross...one sheet of MDF and 7 hrs to finish...it was portable, fun to build, fun to drive and I traded it for a bunch of slot cars

Construction Tip - Luf - 1-23-08

2008-01-23T19:48:00.000-08:00

Hi Steve

I'm finally catching up on my email.

My thoughts on track building...I don't like commenting on designs, because everyone has different ideas about an ideal track and almost anything works...when you get to drawing a final design on the MDF, place cars on the lanes you've drawn and try to imagine how the driving will go...good passing? good flow? visibility? access?...then start routing....lotsa elevations add interest to any track. We only use 3/8" MDF, at less than $20 per sheet you can rout a section for practice, jigsaw out the roadway and then start bending it (till it breaks, then you'll know the limits of it, but you'll be amazed)

Our video is meant for anyone not familiar with woodworking, and might save you a bunch of time and money.

MDF is easy to use, so any cheap router will work (or rent one for a weekend), but get a good 1/8" double fluted carbide bit (about $20) and be ready for lotsa dust. Use face masks and have someone with a shop vac follow the router.

I wouldn't build a track without our routing kit (shameless plug)

Targa Florio - Corners Amid Elevation Changes!

2008-01-22T20:13:00.001-08:00

Tom's Mugello - Far End Corner

2008-01-22T20:07:00.000-08:00

Targa Florio - Through Twisties

2008-01-22T19:57:00.001-08:00

Targa Florio - Cool Approach

2008-01-22T19:54:00.000-08:00

Targa Florio Mountain Climb

2008-01-22T19:47:00.000-08:00

Longer Plan #4

2008-01-22T18:50:00.000-08:00

Floating a Track within a Room

2008-01-22T16:01:00.001-08:00

Archer's Upstairs Track - see entire set of photos here: http://www.oldslotracer.com/NewUpstairs1.html

Larger Plans for South Basment

2008-01-22T07:14:00.000-08:00

OK, I have been getting a little concerned about my 1st set of plans in the sense that the longest straight is only about 9 feet compoared to Falcon Creek Raceway which is 19 feet. I am just afraid I am going to get done, do about 50 laps and say:

1) Wow, this is beautiful and smooth
2) I love the elevation changes
3) I love the flow of the corners
4) I wish it had a longer straightaway!

So, I have came up with the idea to move the workbench out of the bottom left area of the basement and use the remaining space in a more natural oblong design, allowing at least 3 - 4 feet walkaway all around.

Design goals:

1) Longer straight - 12 - 15 ' or more
2) Enable easy marshalling all around
3) Add elevation changes
4) Add turns per real race circuits
5) 3 lanes because I don't want to cramp the space with layout thickness or too many drivers.

Here is the 1st one which I drew freehand - have not added elevation changes yet:

Longer #1

Longer #2

I tried to incorporate some flow lines (straights and corners) from real race circuits. Do you recognize a corner from Shanghai somewhere?

This plan should be about 72 feet in length.

Longer #3

Here is the space I have to work with in the south side of my basement. It is approximately 19' long and averages about 7' wide (it is 9 feet wide in the middle and 4 - 6' wide on the ends

:

Here you can see how layout #2 above would fit in the space:

Cool Corner

2008-01-21T11:19:00.000-08:00

Video of this course:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txounGJZ8B8&feature=related

"Warwick Grove" - TRIGGY's Track

2008-01-15T07:53:00.001-08:00

This is an awesome looking small track built by "TRIGGY" from AUSLOT.COM. The thread describing it's history can be found here:

http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4548&hl=

Mugello Inspired - Calagary Alberta

2008-01-14T21:12:00.000-08:00

Great looking track! I am not sure of the owner - his userid on slotforums is GIDDYUP. Here is a link to the post about this track:

http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=29833

More discussion: http://www.slotcarillustrated.com/portal/forums/showthread.php?t=16102

Photobucket - http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/9thomas/?start=all

Luf's Targa Florio

2008-01-14T20:52:00.000-08:00

Wow! What scenery! I wonder how she drives though?

DIRCUSA

2008-01-14T20:23:00.000-08:00

DIRCUSA was built by one of my best friends - Miles Snell. Miles is not only a great and true friend, but he has built my favorite overall track to race on.

Take a look!

San Phoeno Speedway (www.SanPhoeno.com)

2008-01-14T20:00:00.001-08:00

I absolutely love this track!

The creator is a gentlemen named Martin from Australia. His website is www.SanPhoeno.com

Some quotes I have found about the track and from Martin on track building:

"Table is 16ft x 8ft or 4.8m by 2.4m. Power taps, one per lane from the power supply which is a car battery with a cheap charger on it to keep it topped up. I don't really have an accurate measurement on the lap lengths but I think its about 21m to 23m."

"When I was in my track designing phase, I used to draw them on paper, roughly to scale and then lay the pieces out on a 'table' of the amount of area I had to build the track on... also in scale.

"As you know, the old San Phoeno Raceway was a combination of the reverse hairpin at China, mountain straight into the cutting, corkscrew and the symmons plains hairpin. The only things I would have done differently, would be to have 3 lanes in the space of two and a half lanes, with some longer mergers. Reason for this is after a while you know how to drive the track with your eyes closed, especially by the time you get around to finishing the scenery, your ready for the next track. By adding the extra lane, it makes driving on it with some else a new challenge, every lap. Just like real racing, you add that element of patience and passing that doesn't exist as much as it could on some slot tracks. (But everyone is different and its a personal thing so don't flame me !)

So whatever you come up with on your design, I highly recommend designing a track based on some real life tracks in slot form."

Discussion thread - http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15317&st=0

Another Australian thread: http://www.auslot.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2611&hl=

Martin's site is a wealth of information:

http://www.sanphoeno.com

FCRW Photobucket slideshow

2008-01-14T14:00:00.001-08:00

First Routed Track Plans - 8' by 12' Footprint

2008-01-14T11:14:00.000-08:00

Falcon Creek Basement Footprint
Here is the basement footprint at Falcon Creek. Each square represents 1 foot.

The current track is in the top portion of the basement. My 1st routed "plan" (yet to be built) is in the lower area of the basement. The area shaded in blue is where I plan to eventually build the ultimate Falcon Creek routed track.

Here is a close-up of my 1st routed plan. The track area is 12' wide by 7'9" tall. The numbers on top of the track represent centimeters that the track is above the tabletop in that portion of the track.

Martin's Plan #1

Steve's Plan #5